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October, 2007
J.P. Anderson
Where Magazine
From:
Comfort Food Classics
8 Chicago favorites for stick-to-your-ribs fare
Chef John Hogan of Keefer's is another of the
city's great comfort food maestros. At his sleek. contemporary
restaurant—a top spot for power-dining suits and out-of-town visitors
alike—the native Chicagoan whips up everything from incredibly
tender Guinness-and-panko-bread-crumb-battered calamari (quite
possibly the best in the city) to sides of decadent "Hogan's Peas"
dressed up with leek cream, bacon and pearl onions. The chef's
latest concoctions, created for the restaurant's autumn menu, are
both hearty and haute: coq au vin, seafood pot pie and, notably,
a delectable, hungry-man-size cassoulet that's brimming with white
beans, duck confit and big hunks of lamb, pork and garlic sausage,
all covered in toasted breadcrumbs and baked till piping hot. You
won't be able to finish it, but you'll have a lot of fun trying.
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