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April 2002 BY Carolyn McGuire Chicago Restaurants: New Classics and Timeless Institutions Chicago’s dining scene continues to be an exciting blend of new places and tried-and-true spots for the most discerning of diners, who return to steakhouses, Italian or French restaurants while sampling a lot of ethnic cuisine in between. Keefer’s When word got out that Chef John Hogan was involved in Keefer’s, his fans were excited, but still lamenting the close of his last restaurant, the highly regarded French bistro, Savarin. He also was chef at Kiki’s Bistro in River North. Open just a few months, Hogan has gone the contemporary American route at this bustling (read that loud) downtown restaurant dominated by steaks and chops with a nod to seafood and shellfish. There’s a 22-ounce T-bone ($33.95) and a 17-ounce New York strip ($29.95). Rack of lamb is seasoned with an herb and garlic crust ($29.95). A specialty is oven roasted chicken ($16.95). On the seafood front, Dover sole menuniere (de-boned at the table) is $29.95. There also are a few pasta dishes, and a bistro menu that includes steak sandwich and frites ($14.95) and fish and chips (15.95). Tarte tatin ($6.95) and chocolate flourless cake ($5.95) are two of the desserts. More than 75 percent of the 100-bottle international wine list is under $50. 20 E. Kinzie Street; 312.467.9525
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